mo betta molokai

see hawaii as hawaii sees hawaii. with no leis, no luaus, no high rise hotels. just, plain, beautiful hawaii.

molokai is absolutely stunning. and empty, which makes it feel like we're the only ones here.

we flew in a 9 person plane over oahu to the tiny island of molokai. molokai is only about 40 miles long by 4 miles wide. it has very red soil and only one main "highway" that runs the entire distance. only 7,000 people live on the island. and while people say it's the unfriendly island, it's nearly the opposite. the town has been frozen in time... the buildings and storefronts are very old and inside are random stores filled with the weirdest shit, and the nicest people. there's like 7 restaurants on the whole island. stores close at 8.

there's no zip lines here. no atv's. no swimming with dolphins. just land to explore. each beach with a different personality. either vast beaches with less than 10 people to be seen in either direction. or a small cove with smaller waves and volcanic rocks on either side.

the 40+ miles span the island with a vast difference in terrain on either side. the east side is lush with trees and greenery. smaller beaches with great snorkeling. you drive immediately next to the water through windy roads, farms and scarce houses.

the west side is dry, and red. there are larger vacation houses but no "town." you pull into a small street with a public beach sign and all the sudden the water is upon you. we found a stretch of beautiful beach... 3 miles long with a wide beach of soft sand. the waves crash loudly and there is literally no one around. this beach was my favorite. papohaku beach.

time seems to move so slowly here. we were there for just four nights, three full days and i felt like i was there for a week. with early mornings of coffee and delicious bread, everything seems to move at a slower pace.

there's only a handful of hotels here so the island seems to be filled with nearly 100% locals. you can tell it's an island with little wealth. most stores take EBT. i can't imagine what most people do for work here. i'd like to work at the only ice cream shop. island life is simpler. probably happier. and thankfully there was still a women's march.

i imagine there's a pretty strong community here. with so little people, everyone sort of has to know each other. unless of course you wanted to interact with people very little, i'm sure it's very easy to hide.

molokai is known for being the unfriendly island but it's literally the opposite. people have been so nice, kind and helpful to us. it's obvious we're not locals, yet we are treated with the warmest respects. everyone says hello. i want to live in a world that's more like this. i want to know my neighbors. i want to smile and say hello to strangers. i imagine they have plenty of issues but i've always desired to live a simpler life.

the sunsets are incredible here. when you can walk steps from our back patio and see the sun rise at 7am or set at 6pm. the sky turns purple, the birds squawk and everything feels frozen. i never want to leave.

there's something to be said about the tide rolling in and out. the footsteps get washed away. it's a new slate, a new day. it's like the ocean and the beach reset for the next people to enjoy. if only we had the ability to do that in some way. to forget the scars, the damage done, and be fully present and pure for the next person. if only we were so lucky.

i spend my days thinking. reading. listening to music. taking pictures and being really really thankful. i'm remembering why i love going to work and everything i want to get rid of when i get home. i think of a lot of random things when i spend hours on the beach. how beautiful the water is. how being here with someone i loved would be pretty great. thinking about my friends/family's relationships and realizing how hard it seems. appreciating the quiet. wondering how social media affects me. thinking about how to lose weight since my body is so on display. chris says i'm really good at word vomiting. oh and i just really can't get into snorkeling.

if i could change one thing about my apartment it'd be to have an outdoor shower. i look forward to coming home, sun kissed and incredibly sandy, to turn on a hot shower and see the water pour into the soil. there's something about being unclothed outside that's so freeing. i don't know if we connect our bodies with the earth enough, especially living in a city.

so molokai felt like a dream. a true getaway to relax and recharge. it was one of those vacations you treasure and always want to go back.

and this airbnb made it a dream.